#LINE RIDER CONUNDRUM HOW TO#

There are simpson connectors to make sure your rafters don't sag or move. I would use a LVL ridge, this will never sag. Connect all the points with the 'best fit' chalkline and you have a referernce to start the valley board (california valley). Once you strip back to the deck, you could use a level with a laser pointer buried in it, and a framing square, to project over onto the other plane where the center of the new valleys need to be (after plywood is added). But if I do this now the valley runoff will project onto the old house wall and the foundation is to wide to boot. I should have spaced the addition out further and made the connector roof narrower and set under the old roofs ladder.

Am I asking for troubles from wind driven water? Or is this a good plan. Since I am not installing a new roof on the old section right now I am thinking that sliding the step flashing well coated (on bottom leg) with roofing cement under the shingle but above the tar paper, then a wall flashing slipped under the drip edge and hanging down to the shingles. If I was putting a new roof (will happen next year) I would apply ice and water from old roof and up the 'rafter', step flash, and slip a wall flashing detail under the drip edge. The issue I have in my mind is the rafter/old roof joint and keeping it leak proof. I would then roof as usual and I think I have everything good till this point. Between the 'rafter' and truss I would screw in outlooks(maybe called something else in this application. I would then project a level line onto the new roof and set my truss(set on stud walls in the 4'between the house/addition) and the valley set on the new roof. My thought is to chalk line and cut a strip of shingles off the existing roof directly above the gable truss. If you put a step and they are slightly off the eye won't see it. They never line up perfectly or settling causes them to go mismatch. I have always seen the joint in additions that attempted this.

#LINE RIDER CONUNDRUM HOW TO#

I don't know how to make a good looking and leak proof joint without a tear off on the existing houses roof and redoing it nowĢ. I would like to set the new roof on top of the old roof.ġ. Was careful to keep the eaves the same height but I am worried about framing and roofing the connecting roof. The addition is perpendicular to the original house and due to cantilevered trusses and over hangs has a taller ridge line by 18'. In planning my addition I put off how I was going to connect the roof of the two houses.

Line rider conundrum